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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.